Autumn Winter 2015
When it comes to fashion week and looking at a collection for the first time, many viewers are drawn to the structures (Gareth Pugh's blown-up jackets and skirt and architectural shoulders built seamlessly onto classic ball gowns) or the use of fabrics (Alberta Ferretti's Jacquered prints, velvets, and needle punched organdy and mohair transforming Italian Renaissance fashion into something contemporary). For me, often it is the colours that initially draw me in. This might not be the wisest of remarks, like when people if asked what kind of car they want reply with "red", but colour combinations can be a powerful force.
At Roksanda, blobs of aubergine run against electric blue and slits of mustard rest under a silvery tweed. The colours flow with a neon pink and orange like the waves of a psychedelic sea pulling us into its depth. Choosing to block the most typically mundane of colours with the energetic gives them a new life. It's like playfully befriending the unpopular and propelling them into the spotlight, allowing them to experience the fun.
Roksanda Ilincic is not one to shy away from colour but it's when they are bold and youthful (blue and red, blue and pink, blue and yellow, blue and everything) that I am really filled with affection.